Monday, October 10, 2016

Day 3 (October 10): Golden Circle

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After a long, long night's sleep, we had a leisurely breakfast, then left the hotel to board our bus for our trip around the Golden Circle
In the park where we boarded the bus were some meeting stones that dated back to the 9th century.
Our first stop was the seat of the original Icelandic parliament - Pingvellir. 
Over the course of 30 minutes, as we walked along the path,  we went from drizzle to partly sunny and back to drizzle again.
A highlight of this stop was our first significant waterfall, albeit modest by Iceland standards.


Our next stop was the Fridheimar tomato farm.  Whoopee-do I hear you think. Actually, this one was impressive.  First, remember that we are in Iceland where the climate is not conducive to growing something as relatively fragile as a tomato.  To overcome this required solving how to cost-effectively provide sufficient light and heat to grow them indoors.  Hydro-electric and geothermal power generation capacity in Iceland exceeds demand, making electricity cheap.  A geyser on the farm's property solved the heating problem.

The operation was very sophisticated, including precise climate control that can be monitored and adjusted with a smart phone.  And the farm is not a hobby. The farm grows twenty percent of the tomatoes consumed in Iceland.

After a brief and interesting dog & point show about how the operation worked, including importing female bees from Denmark to pollinate the plants, we sat down to a lunch of what else but tomato soap.  It was good soup, but thankfully came with lots of delicious bread.
While we were having lunch, who walked in but Bob and Charlyn Heidenreich with their granddaughter Heather and her family.  Having seen Bob & Charlyn yesterday in Reykjavik, we knew they were in Iceland, but neither they nor us knew when and where we were having lunch.  With six of us on the trip, Bob and Charlyn's presence made eight of us from Beverly  Yacht Club, a club that only has 500 members.  Small world.

After lunch, we went to Gullfoss.  It was rainy, but we were not deterred.
A marker commemorated Sigridur Tomasdottir.  She and her sisters blazed a trail to Gullfoss and led tourists to it beginning in the late 1800's.  According to legend, she is credited with saving the falls from being destroyed by a dam. 

I thought the artist had been a bit harsh in his portrayal of her until I read the accompanying mini-bio about her.  It included, "Sigridur was often rather strict" (according to her siblings) and "of average height and strong build".  I decided the artist had likely captured his subject rather well.
While at Gullfoss, I had drone-envy watching these guys putting this very sophisticated one through its paces, including descending towards the base of the falls.  I did not envy the amount of time and effort it was going to take them to clean up the equipment after exposure to so much mist.
The final tour stop for today was to see Geysir; the Icelandic equivalent of Old Faithful

Once we left Reykjavik this morning, we spent the entire day in rural settings.  Statistically about two-thirds of the country's population lives in Reykjavik.  Only about one quarter of the country is habitable.  The two statistics combine to spread about 100,000 people over 10,000 square miles with no one on the remaining 30,000 square miles.

The sparse population, even with the overlaid tourist population, results in a limited choice of accommodations.  Hotel Hella, where we spent our second night in Iceland, passed my two top priorities  for lodging - clean and safe - but was a bit basic in other categories. 
We traveled 10 minutes down the road for a great dinner at Hotel Rangà.

If I am ever back in this part of Iceland, Hotel Rangà would be my preferred lodging.  (It is my understanding that they were unable to accommodate our group due to lack of available rooms.)  One reason, beyond amenities, is that unlike our hotel, if the northern lights are visible, Hotel Ranga is in the middle of nowhere, so the is no light pollution. 



When we arrived back at our hotel, before de-bussing ("bus" as a verb?) our guide told us that if the Northern Lights became visible in the middle of the night, it was customary to wake up group members to see them.  We all agreed.  At 11:00 PM, after checking the cloud cover and forecast, I went to bed reasonably certain that there would be no knock on the door.  There wasn't.

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Day 2 (October 09): Beginning with a Dip in the Blue Lagoon


After a poor night's sleep(?) wedged into our plane seats on a 4-hour flight that was intermittently bumpy, we landed in Keflavik ahead of schedule.  We immediately got our first taste of Iceland weather, descending a staircase from the plane to the tarmac to board a bus for the terminal.  It was dark, chilly and rainy.

We breezed through immigration and customs.

In the main terminal we met our Sagres tour director Marco and our local tour manager Marco.  Convenient.
Time Tours
After another slog through the dark, chill and rain we boarded our tour bus.  We were told that our first destination of the day would be the famous Blue Lagoon where we would have about three hours to swim and relax.



Yessiree, there is nothing that I look forward more than racing from a warm building into the cold air dressed in nothing but swimming trunks while being beaten on by a wind-driven rain.
Thankfully the water at the end of our dash really was comfortably warm, although I envied the attire of the lifeguards.  That's one crossing the bridge.
a good time being had by all - just look at the smiling faces

I promptly took refuge under a bridge.
Pam got some sort of facial treatment and we had drinks at the juice bar, all without having to get more than shoulder-high out of the water.
We meandered around the lagoon for about an hour.  

Our skin having become prune-ish (given the water temperature stewed prune-ish?), we could procrastinate no longer in getting out of the water and dashing back into the building.
this couple in the small indoor pool may not have
'enjoyed' the full Blue Lagoon experience
It having been a long time since dinner even allowing for advancing our clocks four hours, it was nice to get something to eat and drink at the Lagoon's cafe before getting on the bus to head for a whale watch cruise.

Although the weather made our experience sub-optimal, I would be remiss not to note that this Blue Lagoon operation was well run, including being spotlessly clean.  [NOTE:  If you plan to visit the Blue Lagoon, a reservation is a must.]
The whale watch departed from the harbor in Reykjavik.  Many of us used the drive there to 'rest our eyes' until we reached the city.  Along the way, the weather got somewhat better.
We boarded our boat, donning the heavy duty foul weather gear provided as we left the harbor.
outdoor art:  Þúfa by Ólöf Nordal
We were repeatedly warned about the rough seas we would encounter on the cruise.  And there were the inevitable disclaimers that there was no guarantee that we would sight whales.  It wasn't and we didn't.  The most entertaining parts of the cruise were listening to the announcer try to generate excitement at seeing dolphins and (admittedly cruelly) watching people who would disagree with me about the sea state dashing out of the salon to the rail to be sick.  It really was not very rough.
Whale sighting-less, we returned to the harbor.

We were delivered to our hotel - Canopy.  Although a Hilton property with 110 rooms, it had a nice, boutique-ish feel that was particularly welcoming to weary travelers.


Pam and I did not dare lay down.  We toughed it out until dinnertime...barely.

From the hotel, we walked about 10 minutes to Restaurant Reykjavik.  We had a nice dinner, but it was clear from the level of table conversation that everyone was looking forward to returning to the hotel or more accurately, going to bed.

Walking through the bar at the hotel on route to our room we had a surprise: fellow Beverly Yacht Club members Bob & Charlyn Heidenreich were seated there.  They were in Reykjavik to visit their granddaughter.  Can you guess her name?
Bedtime, at long last!

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Day 1 (October 08): On Our Way


Everyone having arrived early at our New Bedford Whaling Museum rendezvous, and having been wished bon voyage by the museum's executive director, James Russell, we departed for Boston's Logan Airport fifteen minutes ahead of schedule. 

Less than five minutes later it started to rain.  We hoped it was not a harbinger of things to come, but the coming week's forecast for Iceland calls for rain every day.

Our flight departed on schedule.

Friday, October 7, 2016

Itinerary


October 8:
Depart Whaling Museum by bus at 5:30 p.m.
Depart Logan Airport at 9:30 p.m.  (Icelandair [FI] flight 630)

October 9:

Arrive in Iceland at 6:30 a.m.
City Tour
Whale Watch  (weather permitting)
Blue Lagoon
Hotel: Hilton Canopy


October 10:

Golden Circle Tour
Hotel: Hotel Hella



October 11:

East Coast - Jokusarlon
Hotel: Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon

October 12:

East Coast - Skaftafell
Hotel: Hotel Hella


October 13:

South Shore
Hotel: Fosshotel Rekjavik


October 14:

Depart Iceland at 5:00 p.m.  (Icelandair [FI] flight 631)
Arrive in Boston at 6:35 p.m.
Return by bus to Whaling Museum



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